Marc by Marc Jacobs weaves retail magic as Betsey Johnson throws out the rule book

Like many a show at New York Fashion Week, inspiration for Marc by Marc Jacobs' S/S 2012 line seems to be firmly rooted in the past.

This time, it's back to the heady streets of Eighties New York - basketball boots, sun visors, jumpsuits and anoraks - via the 1950s for a splash of bathing suit creativity.

Retro T-shirts with a bubble-like font firmly stated the current era - though Grandpa-esque vinyl visors, in transparent green, red and blue did a good job of confusing the issue.

Continuing a theme that has been running throughout 2011, Mr Jacobs' more affordable label was chock-full of colour-blocking. Solid bursts of bright hues contrasted with a black detail or an off-set accessory.

Hi-top baseball boots in bright red and cartoon-like cube handbags contrasted with more feminine features such as the peplum-like flurry of detail on a black and coral pink strapless cocktail dress with a sweetheart neckline.

A range of swimsuits looked stunning without being overtly sexy - mini peplum wings on the hips lending a touch of shape to the halter neck designs, while one striped number looked as it if may have been inspired by Victorian English beach life.

Simple, bold fabric designs - red, blue and white stripes and a neon tropical bird on a black background - broke up some simple blocks of colour.

Animal patterns have also been spotted at Carolina Herrera and Victoria Beckham's shows, cementing their place in many a wardrobe next spring and summer.

Mr Jacobs, 48, is currently amid the centre of a storm of speculation over his potential new job at Christian Dior. He reportedly demanded a $10million salary from the French design house which has been left without a creative figurehead since John Galliano's shock departure in February.

Dior or not, if there's one thing we - and Mr Jacobs - can be certain of, it is that the accessible, non-intimidating, youthful designs of his Marc line will fly off the shelves come next year.

From one New York fashion demi-god to another, last night also saw Betsey Johnson's runway show.

Pink hair extensions aside, the eccentric and consistently colourful designer, 69, lived up to her signature design style of playful non-conformity.

A diverse mixture of models and mismatching ensembles saw riotous patterns of red roses with leopard print and skin tight dresses that left nothing of the female form to the imagination.

Where Marc by Marc Jacobs trod safely, Ms Johnson threw out the rulebook, her new collection mixing metallic shining blue and pink Eighties-style puff mini-dresses with black leather hot pants, loud floral prints with chunky silver jewellery and chunky hot pink boots with lace-up sky-high heels.

There were floaty floral dresses - some going for the mullet-look, that is, mini skirts in front and long skirts at the back - and ruffled gold underwear on show.

It was fun, loud and not one for the faint-hearted - and we can see why the increasingly sartorially unpredictable pop star Nicki Minaj is a firm favourite.