2011年12月6日星期二

Eat Like No One’s Watching

Even though we are having an Indian summer of sorts here in Manhattan, the lure of December inevitably brings uncontrollable desires to indulge. Tis the season, after all. Don't you get those cravings for sinful meals you want to dive right into without the pressure of anyone watching?

Sometimes it's good to be bad, really bad. Skip the health and exercise regimens and start exploring these spots that are sure to warm your belly, and then some. For those who are trekking to tropical destinations over winter break, my apologies, and for the rest of you, don't worry, swimsuit season is plenty of months away.

The Ace Hotel has become quite the swanky watering hole for glitterati and hipsters alike, but the real gem of the compound is The Breslin. Helmed by the killer female chef (yes, a rarity!), April Bloomfield delivers fierce animal-centric cuisine. This is not for the faint of heart. Putting a gourmet and playful spin on pub grub coupled with an inventive and potent cocktail program, it's easy to devour yourself into losing all sense of space and time. There is no better way to begin a meal than with "snacks" of caramel popcorn, chicken liver parfait, and boiled peanuts in pork fat. The big guns arrive with Bloomfield's famous terrine board (don't bother worrying about the details), succulent pig's foot and dry aged ribeye for two.

Topping it off with thrice cooked chips (the secret is the duck fat frying finale for the potatoes), I dare you to conquer dessert before you fall into a blissful food coma. For those really looking to live on the wild side, the whole suckling pig and whole lamb dinners are worth the adventure, though you will have to share with about ten of your closest friends you wouldn't mind taking down a true head-to-tail meal with. And consider yourself warned, those that do opt in for these family meals must endure a spotlighted "chef's table" in the middle of the establishment, exposing your dirty little secret to a bevy of diners.

Harlem may now be trendy with the opening of Red Rooster, but the original foodie magnet is famed Dinosaur Bar-B-Que. This roadie shack of heaven that evokes a middle-of-the-country highway motorcycle joint will certainly rev your engine, and it's no wonder with its founders being former Harley-Davidson diehards. The roots of the dishes are Southern, but the barbecued goods take liberty with global influences delivering the perfect fusion of flavors that has built its legacy.

The options are endless, and to make the decision process even harder there is truly nothing they can't do. In particular, the bbq chicken wings are insane (embarrassingly I ordered two full plates for myself!) as are the fried green tomatoes, and don't miss the opportunity to experiment with their many signature sauces. Be ready to dig in with your hands and dump yourself in a trough after all the mess is said and done.

If you aren't familiar with David Chang, you have been living under a rock in New York. Now with four critically-acclaimed restaurants (Ko even has two Michelin stars), there is still something irresistibly nostalgic about his first venture, Momofuku Noodle Bar.

Chang was artfully on the cutting edge of the wave of low-key, subtly designed casual restaurants where it's all about the food, which is anything but ordinary. In the vein of this democratic ethos, where anyone should be able to enjoy modern creativity and elevated flavors of fine dining, you may have to bear a substantial wait to get a chance to taste Chang's creations.

If you can be patient, though, Korean-inspired magic awaits, choreographed to a funky pop music soundtrack that will have you bopping uncontrollably on your barren wooden stool. The famous hoisin pork buns are not to be missed and the various ramen bowls are bountiful, hearty and always packing a punch.

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